My love of the Avery Leggings cannot be overstated. After the success of my greys, I knew I wanted to make another pair for Scapa Fest at the beginnning of May. I also knew from previous experience that the festival could be cold and layers were important! Enter Burda Sweatshirt 022019 #111A.
I first saw this on a Burda blog, and really loved the style lines, although the fabric chosen was wishy-washy and I had to look past that. The tie at the waist, as well as the dropped hem at the back makes it a very useful jumper, especially as I like to emphasise my waist.
There were a couple of things that I wanted to change. I knew I wanted cuffs, and I wanted to highlight the style lines with something. At Stoff and Stil in Copenhagen, I had great fun searching for the materials to make this out of, and finally went with this gorgeous thick turquoise-green French terry, with contrasting pink cuffs, ties and ready-made piping. The piping was going to be quite experimental, as I am well aware that the jersey may not like this addition of non-stretch fabrics but I decided to go for it anyway.
As this was my first time making a Burda pattern I duly cut out the paper pattern pieces without the seam allowance… which is almost obligatory, I think! I went with size 40, and didn’t add or remove any length anywhere.
Then, when it came to cutting out the fabric, I looked carefully at where I wanted to add the piping. In the end, I made the decision to add the piping either side of pieces 2 (front band) and 5 (back band), which meets the front and back pieces and the front and back yokes. I added a 6mm seam allowance here, which was the depth of the piping I’d bought, and added a 1cm seam allowance everywhere else. I actually really enjoyed this process of deciding on my own seam allowance, and by cutting out the paper pattern without the SA added (happy accident) means I can make a different decision next time I make this jumper.
Basically, I liked making my own decision regarding seam allowances and what should be where.
- Growing out an undercut is messy!
I decided not to add piping at the shoulder seams or the armsyces. This latter was to enable stretch in this area as I raise my arms, and the former as I don’t think piping would be very comfy along a shoulder seam. I ironed my fabric and cut it all out, labelling all my pieces carefully.
Another Burda technique that I really liked was how the seams were labelled in order of sewing, which meant you could plan the order of construction just from the pattern pieces. Very important if you have a fabric that you want to pattern match: I could have done with that for the Comox trunks!
The back is actually mostly elasticated. I had an idea that the ties might not keep it in shape enough, so I sewed on elastic through the central part, adding the ties at the edge. I am so happy I did this, as I think the finished article is feminine but very much functional. The ties are slightly stiff, but I am hoping they’ll soften over time.
As this was my first time using proper cuffing (definitely won’t be the last), I experimented a little so as to find a happy tightness. In the end, I cut 9″ width, and used a 1.5cm seam allowance to sew it together. I put one cuff on, found that the sleeves were too long, and shortened the other by an inch. This ended up being the only structural change I made to the finished item, apart from the neckline. By the by, does anyone else move between centimetres and inches like this? I find some measurements are easier in one or the other!
If you look closely at the photos of the finished item on Burda’s website, particularly version B (still haven’t worked out what the difference between them is…), you’ll see how the neckline sticks up. I really didn’t like this look, so I pinched out the excess and hand sewed it down. As I had so little fabric left, the neckline was cut out of two pieces, rather than a single piece. This meant that I could work from both shoulders, removing excess at the existing seams.
In the end this jumper was such a success that it was worn every day at the festival! It was perfect. The most wonderful jumper I could have envisioned, and it was so warm, so soft, so easy to wear that my other jumper didn’t even get a look in! It fitted its purpose for yoga in that I could do the poses without it falling down over my head, and it was just divine to wear. Feedback from my family basically consisted of “Ooo, it’s much nicer than we thought it was going to be!!”
Now, these panther Avery’s are one of my favourite items I’ve ever made. They came together with such ease, and I feel fab wearing them. Especially with the ‘panther behind’ I accidentally created!! It really does amaze me how I can get a pair of leggings out of 1 metre of fabric, especially as I’m tall.
This is View B, the lower waist height and it’s just right on me. I don’t feel like they fall down, and I prefer the way this sits on me compared to View A – just my personal preference. The fabric is from Stoff and Stil as well – we had a great time there in March!, and is such good quality however, it doesn’t have quite the same recovery as my grey Avery leggings. Nevertheless, I love these leggings: they stood up well to many intensive yoga sessions, and I received several compliments which is always nice.
In these photos the leggings are worn with a bamboo jersey top made from leftover fabric from my bridesmaid’s dress, and a RTW top that I cut up and added some trim to as it was never worn as is. Both are still going strong although they must both be at least two years old now.
Overall I was delighted with my hand-made yoga festival! I could have benefited from taking some culottes or something to wear over the leggings as it was chilly, and proper pyjamas would have been warmer (I think some flannel pyjamas will appear on some sort of ‘must make’ list before Autumn!) but these items, along with my original Avery’s were a resounding success.
I would love to include a joyful jumping photo, but I am currently recovering from cracked ribs and was just chuffed to bits to get out and go for a walk and get these photos. You’ll just have to imagine my absolute delight in this winning outfit 😀