Berny-Bernadette

Friday Pattern Company is a bit of a cult favourite amongst indie sewists. Their patterns tend to be trend orientated and perhaps it is for that reason that I’ve never really felt like I am their customer. But the Bernadette skirt stood out and I bought it not long after the release. The making of it, however, was quite a journey and not at all enjoyable for most of the experience.

Why so negative? Well, first off, it was one of those patterns: I just didn’t really fit into it nicely. My measurements (31.5″ waist and 37.5″ hips) put me into large waist and medium hips (the Bernadette, like most Friday Pattern Company patterns is very size inclusive and goes from XS – 7XL (34 – 63″ hips)). Easy peasy, I thought, I will just grade between the two, which I have done numerous times to great success. I pulled out the pattern to make said change, found the back piece and immediately found a problem. The line between a L-waist and M-hips was almost straight. From the hips down, the skirt widened by a mere 1cm. Surely not. Yes, darts would be added, but this would leave such little shape that I immediately felt quite downhearted.

The large waist was my recommended size, but left 2″ ease according to the finished measurements. I know my body shape and know that 2″ ease on the waist when standing leads to items falling down. I measured my waist while sitting down to double check whether I’d need that 2″: nope, even when slouched my waist increases by a solitary inch. I was stumped.

I had already decided to make a midi skirt because I wanted to make something with this gorgeous corduroy. Long sold out, it is a Dashwood Studio design and I purchased 2 metres from Fleur et Ours last year when I was pregnant. I quietly planned on making something for mummy and baby if I had a girl, and as I had a boy it sat on the shelf until I realised that I still loved the fabric and definitely wanted to use it for something.

The fabric is lovely: it’s soft and has a drape to it, and prior to starting, I really hoped that it would have a good structure for the pleats – it does! I am very pleased with the quality of the fabric. But I don’t think this pattern was the right choice. There is a very good chance that it was the bag that drew me in, but both the shape and length did look really nice from the promotional photos. It did seem to fit the bill, so I ordered the printed A0 pattern from The Foldline and got started the evening it arrived.

I cut out on the floor when I could, which translates to “I cut the pieces out one by one over the course of two days”. I decided to cut the skirt pieces as long as possible, knowing that the pattern was drafted for someone 5’6″, and I am 5’11. But also, I love a weighty hem, and knew I could make an interesting detail of it the more fabric I have to play with.

This is where it started to become a bit disappointing. As I was cutting I was taking note of which pieces called for interfacing and which did not and I must admit to being surprised at some locations which did not call for interfacing. I decided to change this up a bit (pieces with a star I interfaced, but the pattern did not request that this was done):

MAIN FABRIC

• Front (A) – Cut 1 on fold – do not interface (or only interface zip*)
• Back (B) – Cut 1 on fold – do not interface (or only interface zip*)
• Facing (C) – Cut 2 – interface (firm)*
• Belt (D) – Cut 2 – interface (medium)* – I also chose to cut this on the fold to remove the need for a centre seam.
• Belt Loop (E) – Cut 1 – interface (firm)*
• Bag (F) – Cut 2 – interface (firm)
• Pocket (G) – Cut 1 – interface (medium)*
• Flap (H) – Cut 2 – interface (firm)
• Bag Loop (I) – Cut 2 – interface (firm)*
  

Does that make sense? The pattern called for two pieces to be interfaced: the bag and the bag flap. None of the belt loops, the facing… even the belt was left un-interfaced. I found this really surprising and would not expect the item to withstand much wear without this support that I added. Take the belt, for example. Without any added stability, even the firmest fabric would start to fold in on itself, especially when carrying the bag as well. I found this really strange and it left me with doubts as to what other details had been left out.

It started to come together: the pleats are lovely and very satisfying to sew, the darts came together nicely and I finished the side seams with the overlocker. I found a zip in my pile that was a good colour but too long, and so shortened it to the length as requested by the pattern with a nice wee binding of fabric at the end (it’s still too long, a 30cm zip on a skirt is excessive). I also decided to do a lapped zip instead of an invisible zip because I just prefer them. I also think that they are better suited to heavier fabric and are less likely to fail (correct me if I’m wrong!). I did forget that I’d made a decision to interface the zip area though, and regret that. I briefly considered unpicking but I decided not to, as I was already pretty cheesed off with the skirt and this pattern.

Now, I must mention another negative aspect: there are no pockets. I probably should have realised this before choosing this pattern, but I didn’t. Aside from the bag (which only just fits my phone) there are no pockets at all. The moment I realised was when cutting out, and I toyed with the idea of adding in the fantastic pockets of the Leisl + co Girl Friday culottes which have the best side seam (with integrated zip) pockets I have ever come across. I decided not to (still reeling from the lack of interfacing) and I am already regretting that decision. The lack of pockets means this skirt will be less worn than is ideal.

Once the zip was in, the first try on confirmed my fears: it was too big. It slung around my hips rather than sitting up around my waist. Knowing I couldn’t move forward without fixing it, but feeling pretty disgruntled, I unpicked the facing and the non-zipped side seam and pinned it in place while it was on my body. I took out an inch and graded it out as best I could be bothered to do (which is to say, it isn’t perfect), this wasn’t going well. The amount I took out confirmed the ease I need while sitting – something to remember in future.

With that, the skirt was pretty much finished. I left it unhemmed until I could face working out a length and forced myself to keep going rather than give up in a huff. The problem is that my sewing time is limited. I squeeze in the time after Lachie is asleep and I’ve done my house jobs and sometimes my energy has dissipated before I get to my sewing machine. So to feel like I am forcing my way through a project is not fun. It’s also different from how I used to be. I like to work my way through a pattern, making my own decisions about what finishes and techniques I use: it is a big reason why I like European patterns over North American patterns as the latter tend to be too wordy. But something about this one frustrated me.

The skirt wasn’t beyond me, with unrestricted time and the ability to sew when I was mentally alert, I would have been much more aware of the choices ahead of me. I would have put in pockets; I would have fitted it better. But when time is limited, I don’t want to have to make all these decisions myself: I want to just follow instructions and know it’s going to be right. But with this, it just didn’t flow.

Up next was the bag, and where the skirt had been a struggle, my goodness, the bag turned my experience on its head: this wee bag was a joy to create.

I had, while cutting out, decided to add some cotton wadding to the bag to make it padded, so I added this in and though it added to the complications by making everything much thicker, it has really enhanced this wee cutey. The pattern did call for a lining fabric and I used divine viscose lining that I bought in Copenhagen a few years ago. The colour – absinthe green? – is just utterly delectable and I loved how it looked next to the corduroy. Perhaps I should have also made bias binding out of the viscose to finish the facing and the hem, but who has the patience to try that with slippery, slidey fabric? Not me, so I used a shop bought binding from my stash instead and still love the effect. The lining is sublime, and the bag just came together beautifully. It was wonderful.

One thing to watch out for, is that though I marked the location of the popper, I didn’t put it on prior to assembling the entire bag (mainly because I couldn’t be bothered to go and get the hammer) and thank goodness I did not as the two connecting poppers wouldn’t have met due to there being less of an overlap than expected. I might have made a mistake and took a larger seam allowance on a particular pattern piece, but I do recommend delaying putting on your popper until the whole bag is assembled in case you end up in the same situation as I did.

For the hardware, I decided to order a d-ring (for the belt) and spring poppers from The Trimming Shop, and I am so impressed with them. The finish – I went for brass – is lovely, and they were so easy to assemble. I also bought this kit to put the snaps together. This wee bag has given me so much joy that I think other bags will be in my future, and I will use the Trimming Shop in future to source any necessary parts, the quality is just exemplary.

Job done, bag on belt, skirt on body, I decided to hem it with a deep hem of 11cm. Finished with a dash of bias binding, the skirt was done. Now, I think I will forget the experience of making it, but who knows how much I will wear it. I love the fabric. Absolutely love it, and the bag is so cute. The finished skirt? Well, despite interfacing it, you can see from the photos that the belt is folding over and is not capable of holding its shape after two very short wears. And the skirt itself just doesn’t really fit. If I tighten the belt enough so that the skirt stays up, the top collapses and it also raises another issue: the lack of belt loops on the front of the skirt means that the belt doesn’t stay in place. Yes, I should have just made and added more belt loops, but when the list of issues with this pattern is as long as it is, the will to make perfect these issues dissipates.

Do I recommend the pattern? Do we have to ask this question? Shall we move on? Will I use Friday Pattern Company again? Never say never. But I think next time I do, I will make sure I have the headspace to really question what I am wanting from the item and the time to make necessary changes. Will I wear the skirt? Time will tell, but let us hope so. Will I make another of the bags? Oh, hell yeah!