Turia, The Fourth

If there was one item of clothing that you feel most like yourself in, what would that be? Some people would say a dress, other’s their jeans…. for me, it’s my dungarees.

I’ve not had a pair for a couple of years, ever since my last Turia’s failed. They failed magnificently: the fabric collapsed, the flat-felled seams un-felled, everything seemed just to give up the ghost. And yet I kept them for a year, maybe more, in the hope that they’d be fixable, but they really weren’t and now they have passed to the great wardrobe in the sky.

I have my Greta’s, of course, and they’re worn a lot, but they aren’t true, hard-wearing dungarees. They don’t even have back pockets, and goodness knows I love a back pocket. And yet, despite my reservations with Greta, they have been worn enough that the fabric is starting to lose it’s shape and I knew it was time for my next pair of dungarees (don’t worry, the Greta’s will be worn until they’re done).

There was no question that they’d be anything but Turia’s. This is now my fourth time using this pattern (two dresses 1, 2, and one pair of dungarees) and each time I make a wee adjustment, and I knew that this time I could make it pretty much perfect.

Spoiler alert: I was right.

Firstly, the fabric. My first pair of Turia’s were bright blue, and I wanted to repeat their success. This fabric is heavy-weight twill from Ray Stitch and I, well, I love it. I bought 2.5metres, and can’t remember how much I have left. Not loads, but hopefully enough to use for something else. I also treated myself to Kylie and the Machine’s dungaree kit in a lovely brushed copper colour and when the time was right, was able to start.

For the lining fabric, I chose one of my favourite ever fabrics. It is Japanese cotton that I have tried, and failed, to get more of, meaning I had a meagre amount and was stuck for inspiration as to what it should become. This way, it gives me such joy every time I wear my dungarees, and it’s far better on my body than lingering on the shelf. This is another tick on my fabric edition of the Make-9 challenge, and that brings me real joy.

So, I had the fabric and then I just needed some time in which to sew. It isn’t easy with a wee one to look after, but I managed to steal half an hour here and there, and gradually built up my dungarees. Weirdly, it is actually easier to work on a complicated project as there are more satisfying and obvious steps, after which it’s easier to stop. So, one night, I made the back pockets, the next night I sewed them on. And so on, and so forth. Progress might have been slower than once upon a time, but I loved creating these. Slow sewing for the win.

And, of course, it helped that I am familiar with this pattern. Indeed, I really have made it my own. As I’ve made quite a few changes to this pattern now, it’s undoubtedly easier if I just list them. For reference, I have 5’11”, and measure 37:31.5:37.5″. I work off a base size 42.

Turia goes from 34 to 45″ hips, so cannot be called size inclusive at all.

Structural changes (ones new to this rendition of the pattern are italicised):

• Straps lengthened by 2″ – and they could be lengthened by another 2 in future editions
• Rise 1″ longer than original
• Leg length increased by 4″
• Leg width reduced by 1/2″ at each hem seam, resulting in a total of 2″ reduction in width at each hem, graded out to nothing at hip/crotch
• Bodice lengthened by 1″
• Front pockets 1″ longer and 1/2″ wider than original pattern
• Back pockets 1/2″ bigger in all directions
• Only put in one side zip

And, differences in finish to the original pattern (what the pattern calls for is in brackets after my technique)

• Line the front bib and straps with contrasting fabric (pattern calls for fold twice and topstitch)
• Use bias binding to finish the back bib edges and the pocket edges (pattern asks you to clip the curves, fold once and then topstitch)
• Flat felled seams are finished on the inside as I do not have the greatest success with these seams, and this way if they pop at least it’s hidden.

I used a copper-y brown upholstery thread as topstitching, using a normal weight thread in the bobbin. It worked beautifully! I also had gotten my old machine serviced so that I could set up all three machines on my tables, meaning I didn’t have to rethread to swap between topstitching and seam stitching. I will never look back, and now that I have a nice denim to make some jeans with, I feel well-equipped and ready to go.

They’ve already been well-worn. However, one downside of having a wee chappy on my hip most of the day, is that my clothes get filthy! So, instead of just getting them well worn in and trying not to overdo the washing, my dungarees are already well-familiar with the washing line. But they are withstanding their rough treatment very well indeed – does anyone else carefully check the garment the first time they get put through the washing machine?! – and the fabric really does feel like it has a lot of life to live.

They’ve been worn camping, on walks, paddling in the sea… Lachie loves the buttons, I love the dungarees and really do feel like me in them. Which is always a nice thing to feel.